Wild Trails Wales Guide: Walking through the Welsh Winter
As the days grow shorter, the temperature drops, and the Autumn storms begin to rattle in from the Atlantic Ocean, the idea of heading out into the mountains or more remote coastal or woodland trails can seem more intimidating, and perhaps it should. Although in Wales our mountains are small, our weather systems are very changeable and can produce some difficult walking conditions. Grey and stormy days may seem to last for weeks on end, but the truth is that they seem infinitely worse from behind a pane of rain-spattered glass than when out in it, and with good preparation there is no reason not to get outside and discover the magic of winter walking in Wales.
The rewards of walking in winter are so great, it would be a shame to miss out on what this season has to offer. There is incredible raw beauty to be found in the winter-bleached landscapes, the bare bones of hawthorn trees casting long shadows across frost bitten grass and frozen bogs. You quickly forget the numbness in your toes when walking above fog filled valleys and watching mist rise through the trees as the sun barely breaks the horizon of hills to briefly warm the valley floors. While the days may seem grey and dull from inside a central-heated, synthetically-lit building, once outside, our eyes adjust to the subtle spectrum of winter colours which emerges and the silver light and biting wind brings a kind of warmth to our souls, if not our bones.
Birds are busy; wild Geese gather and Starlings murmurate. Foxes the colour of rain-rusted bracken dart between the hedgerows. Redwings, Fieldfares and Lapwings flock to the fields. The sight of a Kingfisher or an Otter may reward those patient enough to sit in a river hide in the cold and wait for a glimpse. From the coast path seals and porpoise can be seen throughout the winter, and deer wander shyly in many of our woodlands.
With the shorter days, sunsets and sunrises are more accessible, and spells of cold northern air bring clear skies with incredible displays of stars. Although I love the easy days of summer, for me it is winter walking that provides the greatest rewards, it is where I feel most in touch with my wild side; resilient and alive.
So, where to start? Here are a few of the things I consider when planning my winter walking:
Clothing
While we may be able to get away with a bit of a soaking or lingering on a cold windy summit in the summer, in winter the risks of hypothermia are even more real, and it can happen extremely quickly. The best way to avoid this is to make sure our clothing is up to the job; and master the layering system:
Base layers should be quick-dry or wicking fabric to remove any sweat from the skin. I love a merino wool base layer but they are expensive, so I keep an eye out in the sales.
Next, a mid layer; a fleece, insulated jacket or wind breaking jacket are all great. It’s always a good idea to have two mid-layers, keeping one as a spare in your bag in a dry-bag.
Finally, a properly waterproof (not just water resistant) coat & trousers.
A hat, gloves and neckwarmer are all absolute musts, even if they stay in your bag in a dry-bag.
Thinking of investing in some new hiking gear? Read this first >
Waterproof walking boots with ankle support and good grip are really key. Personally, I prefer wearing trail shoes to boots in the summer unless I’m working, but in winter, I will concede and squeeze my reluctant feet into stiff boots for the payoff of dry, warm feet and protected ankles, and to give grip in the mud. I’ll also use walking poles most days in the winter, they really help on a slippery descent. A group shelter or blizzard bag also comes into its own in the winter.
Weather Watching
Getting a good weather forecast is important all year-round, but arguably even more so in the Winter when things can head downhill much more quickly if you face any issues while you’re out. If you’re going to the mountains, use a forecast specifically for the mountains, as the general forecast is more often than not completely different to the conditions higher up.
There are two extremely helpful weather resources which are my go-to for planning walks:
Mountain Weather Information Service
Dealing with the Dark
At some point during the winter you will probably be walking in the dark. Even if you don’t plan to, it is a good idea to know how to be out in the dark safely in case you get unexpectedly delayed or lost.
Firstly, carry a good head torch, and a spare, or at least some spare batteries. Being able to navigate in the dark is a really useful skill, so consider getting some training in night navigation. Remember that phone batteries can drain very quickly in the cold and so GPS apps aren’t completely reliable. Personally, I like to have them as a handy confirmation tool or quick reference, but I always have a map and compass to hand and know how to use it.
If you’re planning a long walk, consider going out earlier rather than later. Starting in the dark of the morning gives you the security of the coming light of day in which to sort out any unexpected issues, like getting lost!
Eat well
The amount of energy used up on a long walk in cold or windy weather is much more than you might expect. Think a couple of thousand calories for a full mountain day. So have a really good breakfast, hydrate well, and pack lots of energy rich snacks like nuts, dried fruit and chocolate. I love to take a flask of warm food like stew or soup for lunch in the mountains and I’ll usually pack a spare meal in case I’m out longer than planned. A flask of hot chocolate is an absolute must-have for me. It keeps morale high and feels incredibly luxurious on a cold / wet / windy day. Planning breaks out of the wind or rain and avoiding stopping for too long can help you avoid getting too cold.
Snow and Ice
From November to around April we see snow on and off on our mountains in Wales. Walking on thick snow and ice is a completely different prospect to walking on wet, muddy and frosty ground, and on several of the mountains in Wales you’d need specialist equipment and training to be safe in those conditions. On some of the grassy sloped hills you may be able to get away with walking on a thin dusting of snow in just good winter boots, but if you want to get up on to any of the higher summits or ridges it would be a very good idea to book on to a Winter Mountain Skills course to learn how to use winter equipment and navigate in white-out conditions.
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