Pembrokeshire Day Walk : St David's Head & Carn Llidi

Looking towards Strumble Head from the lower slopes of Carn Llidi

A stone’s throw away from bustling St David’s and popular Whitesands beach, this circular walk offers incredible panoramic views and a rugged landscape, with plenty of prehistory.

Need to Know

Best time to walk: All year round - but August for displays of heather, September - October to spot seal pups.

Map: OS Explorer, OL 35

Start: Whitesands Car Park / Bus Stop

End: Whitesands Car Park / Bus Stop

Distance / Time: 6.3km / 4 miles

Ascent / Descent: 263m

Transport / Parking: The 403 Celtic Coaster operates between St David’s and Whitesands. Buses link St David’s to Haverfordwest and Fishguard for trains. There is a large car park at Whitesands, which gets very busy during school holidays so arrive early. Alternative parking available in St David’s, which adds a couple of miles each way to the route along quiet country lanes.

Food / Drink / Supplies: There is a nice beach cafe at Whitesands for ice creams and coffees. Head into St David’s for picnic food from St David’s Food and Wine, or pizza at Grain. For a traditional pub try the Bishop’s or for something extra special, St David’s Kitchen.

The Route

The route is available to view on OS maps online here. Please note you’ll need an OS subscription to view it.

Trwynhwrddyn point looking over to the Bishops and Clerks islands

Just before the slipway on to Whitesands beach, a gap in the stone wall leads on to the coast path, uphill close to the cliff edge, with increasingly beautiful views back over Whitesands, towards Ramsey and the Bishops and Clerks islands. The path climbs higher, then a gate leads you out onto moorland, away from the cliff edge briefly, then downhill to reach the quiet sandy beach of Porthmelgan.

Looking back towards Traeth Mawr (Whitesands)

From Porthmelgan beach, follow the narrow trail back up along the clifftop with the sea on your left, until you reach the rocky ramparts of the iron age fort. A small gap in the wall leads you into the fort and out onto the headland. A keen eye will spot the stone circles - remains of 2,000 year old huts! Keep climbing out until you reach the point, where you’ll have fantastic panoramic views. This is one of my favourite spots in Pembrokeshire to look out for seals and porpoise swimming past as well as gannets and kestrels.

Iron age fort ramparts, looking back to Carn Llidi from St David’s Head

On the tip of St David’s Head, Ramsey Island in the distance

Ponies on the common, conservation grazers.

Retrace your steps through the ramparts, then keeping close to the sea on your left, climb up onto the common. Don’t miss Coetan Arthur Neolithic burial chamber on the right just before the steepest part of the climb. The Wales Coast Path winds its way over the common, through heather and gorse, spectacular in late summer. Keep your eyes to the sea for the chance to spot porpoise passing.

Following the coast path through the heather

Leaving the coast path behind you when you reach a large stone wall, roughly follow the wall steeply uphill, turning off near the crest to climb upwards towards Carn Llidi. There is a good path which takes you underneath a rocky ridge, and then up onto it. There is a very short step which you need to scramble up to reach the top, but the views are worth it!

Beginning to climb Carn Llidi, Strumble Head in the far distance

Views over Whitesands and Ramsey Island from Carn Llidi

When you can tear yourself away from the views, return the way you came to the old stone wall. The path now turns downhill, and then follows the contour around the base of the hill. Ignore the gate and sign leading to the hostel in a small area of trees, continuing on alongside the wall instead.

Following the track around the base of Carn Llidi, with views of St David’s in the distance

The Bishops come into view, then drop down onto the track through a gate, passing through some holiday cottages. Turn onto a lane leading right, then downhill to join the road leading to Whitesands car park.

Please note this route is for information and inspiration only and we can’t be held responsible for any inaccuracies or problems arising. We advise you to take a paper map and compass and be able to use them. Please be Adventure Smart.