Wild Trails Wales Guide: The Amazing Long Distance Trails of Wales

Walking along a roman road in the Brecon Beacons National Park

Trails are an amazing concept. That creatures act in a way that is repetitive enough to create long lasting marks on the land, whether sheep trails, deer trails, fox trails or indeed human trails is fascinating. Of course there are many reasons why a trail becomes established, but it is strong patterning which influences a much-used trail. Many trails follow the lie of the land, along the path of least resistance. Others take the most direct route between certain landmarks, such as a church, lake, village or viewpoint. Some trails are conceptual, such as pilgrimage routes, territorial borders or based on legendary characters, and these are the trails that I find most fascinating.

Long before vehicles, the people of Wales were travelling the land by foot and on horseback on trails through valleys, along riversides and over mountain passes. Drovers created their own ways and though many of them have been paved over as modern roads, some of these green lanes still exist and form part of our trail network today. And let’s not forget the Romans, trail makers extraordinaire!

Although I very much love to go ‘off-trail’ finding my own way and making up personal conceptual routes, there is something about a well travelled trail which draws you in and holds a certain energy.

In Wales we’re fortunate to have some amazing long-distance trails. Some along ancient routes and some much newer conceptual routes, but which will, with time, become an ancient route carrying the energy of those who have passed through if they become well-established enough, and if we care for and maintain them down the generations - in these times I find that a really comforting thought.

Here is a non-exhaustive list of some of the long distance trails we have in Wales:

1/ Wales Coast Path

When it was launched back in 2012, this amazing long-distance trail, running the entire length of the coast of Wales was the first of its kind in the world. At 870 miles long, the trail joined up sections of coast path trails such as the Pembrokeshire Coast Path that had been popular walking trails for decades. Although coastal in essence, there is such a diversity of coastal environments that it holds interest along each and every mile.

2/ Cambrian Way

The Cantilever stone on the Cambrian Way

The Cambrian Way is a 300 mile long route across the spine of Wales, from Cardiff to Conwy, over the highest mountains and moorland of the wildest parts of Wales. This trail was conceptualised and campaigned for by Ramblers Cymru for more than 50 years, and they recently completed the waymarking of the trail. I’m yet to walk much of this trail but it is high on my walking bucketlist - sure to be a life changing journey of discovery through my home land.

3/ Wye Valley Walk

This trail following the beautiful River Wye from sea to source or vice versa, is 136 miles long and encompasses river banks, woodland, steep gorges and moorland, passing ancient sites, tiny villages and market towns on the way.

4/ Snowdonia Slate Trail

Old slate tunnels at the Dorothea quarry

The Snowdonia Slate Trail, or Llwybr Llechi Eryri, is part conceptual trail linking areas of important industrial heritage from yes, you guessed it, the slate mining areas of Snowdonia, and part historic trail, as the route follows old tramways, railways, and workers’ trails. It is an 83 mile circular trail which could be covered in 7 days comfortably. I’ve walked many sections of this trail which is particularly close to my heart, having descended from a line of slate quarrying families from the area.

5/ Glyndwr’s Way

Owain Glyndwr’s Parliament building in Machynlleth, roughly half way on the route

Glyndwr’s Way is a long distance trail of 135 miles from Knighton to Welshpool via Machynlleth in mid Wales. The trail links sites of historical importance connected to welsh historical hero Owain Glyndwr, and his rebellion in the early 1400’s. Designated as a National Trail since the year 2000, the trail is well established yet its location passing through a very quiet and sparsely populated part of the country means it is never crowded - a great option if you’re looking for a quiet journey.

6/ Offa’s Dyke Path

Cwmyoy, just below the Offa’s Dyke trail

This trail is a truly historic trail, tracing as it does, the incredible Offa’s Dyke feature built to separate Wales and Mercia in the 8th Century. Named after King Offa of Mercia, it is speculated that the King wanted to keep the unruly welsh away from his territory, though that is far from proven in the historical record. At 177 miles long the trail roughly traces the border between England and Wales, and would take around two weeks to walk.

7/ North Wales Pilgrim’s Way

The North Wales Pilgrim’s Way is a newly conceived route based on pilgrimage traditions going back centuries. Beginning at Basingwerk Abbey at Holywell, with a destination of Bardsey Island, an island off the tip of the far west of Wales which has been a pilgrimage destination since at least the 7th Century. The route visits abbeys, churches, holy wells and in full tradition, includes a boat trip over to Bardsey Island itself. The trail is 135 miles and takes around 2 weeks to complete.

8/ Sarn Helen

Maen Llia Standing Stone, with Sarn Helen Roman road passing through the valley behind

Sarn Helen is a truly ancient route, or collection of routes, built by the Romans during their occupation of Wales. While the Romans paved the way, in many places it is thought that they constructed over pre-existing ancient routes which could have been in use for thousands of years. While a mountain biking trail has been established taking in some of the roman roads, there isn’t an officially designated Sarn Helen long distance walkers trail. That’s not to say that there aren’t many sections of the roman road network that don’t provide beautiful walking and it would be very possible to link sections together into a beautiful long distance trail, as walked by the Romans themselves 2000 years ago.

9/ St Illtyd’s Walk

Melincourt falls along the route of St Illtyd’s Walk

St Illtyd’s walk is another newly conceptualised long distance trail in south Wales, from Pembrey in Carmarthenshire through to Margam near Port Talbot, linking sites of historical importance related to the early Celtic church, in particular sites related to St Illtyd, one of Wales’ most important saints, founder of the earliest seats of Christian learning in Wales - it is said that both St David and St Patrick studied at his church in Llantwit Major. The trail visits sites with ancient celtic crosses and stone carvings, and travels the ridgeway above Swansea Bay over to Carmarthenshire. The trail is 77 miles and can be done in 7 days.

10/ The Beacons Way

The Beacons Way is an amazing journey through the Brecon Beacons National Park in south-central Wales, visiting some of the major peaks including Pen y Fan and Fan Brycheiniog. A frustrating 99 miles long (why?!) the walk takes around 8-10 days to complete and involves some tough ascent and descent, as well as tricky route finding in parts. Though I may make some personal adjustments to the route, I can’t think of a better way to explore the Brecon Beacons.