Wild Trails Wales Guide: Hiking the Wales Coast Path
Wales Coast Path
Why Walk the Wales Coast Path?
When the Wales Coast Path was officially opened in 2012, its 870 miles of trail around the entire coastline of Wales made it the first of its kind anywhere in the world. Despite being predominantly coastal, the variety of scenery and environments taking in estuary, dunes, coastal woodland, clifftops, inlets, coves, fishing villages, headlands, marsh, sweeping sandy beaches, ancient sites, not to mention five cities, mean that no single day on the trail is ever the same.
How long does it take?
The trail takes around 2-3 months to complete, so many people tackle it in stages, some coming back year after year to experience and tick off another section. When planning your trip it’s worth taking into account that it’s not necessarily as simple as picking a start and end point and looking at the miles; some areas of the Wales Coast Path are very flat and can be covered quickly, while others can include as much ascent as a full day in the mountains! Also bear in mind that inlets and estuaries can add a lot of mileage.
Which are the best parts of the Wales Coast Path?
While there are undoubtedly some parts of the coast path that offer more obvious beauty, scenery and wildlife over others, each area has it’s own flavours and characteristics worthy of exploration. This guide offers a subjective and unofficial breakdown of different areas, going clockwise starting from the South East.
Chepstow Castle at the start of the Wales Coast Path
Chepstow to Cardiff
What a place to begin your walk around Wales! Chepstow castle, the oldest surviving stone castle in Britain, sits on top of precipitous limestone cliffs overlooking the tidal mouth of the River Wye, just as it meets the mighty River Severn. From here the trail follows the estuary where you’ll likely experience the roar of the second-highest tidal range in the world, with exposed mudflats at low tide. Although there is a strong industrial flavour on this section of the trail, you’ll also experience an important habitat for wildlife, particularly migratory and wading birds. Shortly after walking through wetlands, you’ll arrive in the port city of Newport. From here the trail remains industrial and is still very estuary-like in nature until reaching the docks of Cardiff, then along to the shiny development of Cardiff Bay, and a chance to explore the capital city of Wales. This section is supported by regular buses and a train line.
Glamorgan Heritage Coast
Glamorgan Heritage Coast
Sandwiched between Wales’ two largest cities of Cardiff and Swansea, this section often gets overlooked. However, the Glamorgan Heritage Coast’s Jurassic coastline is one of the most unspoilt and unique parts of the Wales Coast path with golden cliffs studded with fossils, tiny hidden wooded valleys, traditional farmland, historic villages, homely country pubs, and spectacular sunsets. The coastline here is dynamic and constantly shifting. This is another section with excellent train and bus links.
Crossing the river Ogmore to the next section of the trail, you’ll find miles of sand dunes, and an option for a flat section through the industrial areas of Port Talbot and sea front at Aberavon, or a hilly inland alternative with great views over the coast, before reaching the city of Swansea.
Rhossili Bay on the Gower Peninsula
Gower Peninsula
This is the section of the Wales Coast Path when travelling westwards, you begin to feel the transition from the Severn Estuary to the Atlantic Ocean. The sea is bluer and clearer as the water carries less sediment, and the golden sands and gently rolling green clifftops, woodland and valleys offer some of the best scenery of the entire trail. Take some time to learn the area’s rich history of medieval lords, smugglers and shipwrecks, as well amazing prehistory. Look out for seals, porpoise, choughs and peregrine falcons. Highlights include the sandy beaches and dramatic cliffs of Rhossili Bay and Worm’s Head, and Three Cliffs Bay.
The coast of Carmarthenshire
Carmarthenshire
Another perhaps unfairly overlooked part of the Wales Coast Path in South Wales is the Carmarthenshire Coast. The huge stretches of sand along Pembrey, Cefn Sidan and Pendine offer vast amounts of space to breathe, and with a number of historic small coastal towns all home to medieval castles this is a great area to explore. There are a couple of fairly sizeable diversions inland here thanks to three rivers which converge to meet the sea. There is a coastal train service for around half of this part of the Wales Coast Path, which can be helpful if you want to tackle it in smaller sections.
Pembrokeshire Coast Path
South Pembrokeshire
The Pembrokeshire Coast Path is a National Trail established in 1970, predating the Wales Coast Path by decades. Being the only fully coastal National Park in the UK, you know you’re going to be experiencing somewhere special. The Pembrokeshire Coast section of the Wales Coast Path is a walkers’ paradise, hugging the coastline for 186 miles of rugged clifftop, dunes, estuary, beach and fishing villages. Although the county is traditionally known as being split ‘north’ and ‘south’ by locals, because it takes up such a large portion of the Wales Coast Path, for walking purposes it is more intuitively divided into three sections.
South Pembrokeshire begins in the picturesque and colourful harbour resort towns of Saundersfoot and Tenby, before heading west along clifftops past some spectacular rock formations. In some places this coastline is tranquil and sheltered, and in others, such as the west facing aptly named Freshwater West, you can feel the full force of the Atlantic. You’ll also stumble upon castles, forts, chapels and ancient churches. If you can see past the jarring presence of the firing range at Castlemartin and the oil refineries at Pembroke Dock and Milford Haven, you’ll discover a quiet, peaceful section of the coast path which prepares you for even wilder beauty to come.
During the summer months there is a coastal bus service here, which runs on a much reduced schedule in the winter. Some of the coast is also accessible by train.
Looking over Whitesands Bay towards Ramsey Island
West Pembrokeshire
Welcome to the wild west! As the trail leaves Milford Haven, a really interesting town for maritime heritage and a blossoming foodie scene, you’ll be meandering around inlets before heading out to the headlands of St Ann’s and Wooltack which has amazing views over to Skomer and Skokholm Islands, home to Puffins and the largest breeding colony of Manx Shearwater in the world! Be on the lookout for Atlantic Grey Seals and porpoise as you walk the coast path here. Heading north you’ll pass numerous sandy beaches and fishing villages, before arriving at the ancient city of St David’s. Smaller than most towns, it was given city status due to the important medieval cathedral here, to which two pilgrimages equal one to Rome! Following the coast northwards again the trail climbs steeply up and drops down hundreds of times, making this one of the toughest, but most dramatic sections of the Wales Coast Path. Arriving at Strumble Head you’ll have an amazing view southwards back from where you’ve walked.
There are two sometimes white-knuckle but very useful coastal bus services here which support the coast path, stopping at many of the coastal villages en route. There is a good tourism infrastructure here, with plenty of places to stay, eat and get to know the culture and community through craft and visitors centres and drop-in activities. This is one of the best parts of the Wales Coast Path to sample some amazing fresh local seafood.
The North Pembrokeshire coastline
North Pembrokeshire
You may want to train your legs a little before tackling this part of the Wales Coast Path! The path rises from sea level to clifftop and back again seemingly perpetually, but as the cliche goes ‘the best view comes after the hardest climb’ and the views along this section of the Wales Coast Path are phenomenal. With a handy rail link plus a ferry to and from Ireland should you need it, and lots of facilities, Fishguard is a great place to start this section. The huge beach at Newport offers a bit of relief for the legs before climbing again, with the most incredible scenery all the way to Poppit. Finally, follow the river Teifi upstream through the ancient village of St Dogmaels before arriving in Cardigan.
Ceredigion Coast Path
Ceredigion
Into the belly of the Wales Coast Path here, the Ceredigion Coast Path is a 59 mile long stretch of the lushest green countryside rolling down into emerald waters home to the largest population of Bottlenose dolphins in Europe. Keep your eyes peeled as you walk as they’re often visible swimming close to the coast path. Beginning at the ancient town of Cardigan, you’ll be following the Teifi estuary out through farmland until you reach the headland overlooking Cardigan Island. This is some of the most beautiful and dramatic coastal scenery in Wales! Arriving at Mwnt you’ll be treated with views over the most picturesque white sand bay imaginable, with an ancient fishermen’s chapel perched below the prehistoric hill fort promonitory. Another spectacular section follows, with a brief diversion inland around a military base, then another stretch of climbs and descents in and out of pretty harbour villages, each with a pub named ‘The Ship Inn’ or similar, testiment to the area’s boat building heritage, offering plenty of chances for refreshment! The section that follows, from Aberaeron, and on to Llanrhystud, sometimes offers a reprieve from the constant climbing and descending, as the Wales Coast Path follows a coastal plain for part of the way here. Enjoy the rest while you can, as the next section, towards University and resort town Aberystwyth, tackles some lofty cliffs, where at times you’ll need a really good head for heights. The impossibly green landscape and expansive views over Cardigan Bay more than make it worth the effort. Beyond is the huge sandy expanse of Borth, and a nature lover’s paradise following the Dyfi estuary inland through some spectacular forest and hillside terrain towards Machynlleth. The section from Aberystwyth to Machynlleth is supported by train, and earlier stretches from Cardigan are supported by bus.
Aberdyfi overlooking the Dyfi Estuary in South Snowdonia
South Snowdonia Coast
Crossing the mighty Dyfi river at Machynlleth after a considerable distance inland, you’ll once again feel the coastal air as you head towards Aberdyfi. Endless windswept beaches backed by sand dunes with mountain backdrops are the highlight of this section, broken by the lively holiday towns of Aberdyfi, Tywyn and Abermaw / Barmouth. The compromise of the wonderful scenery, where the mountains meet the sea, is having to share the coast with a fair number of large caravan parks, just to remind you that you’re not, in fact, in middle earth. The bridge across the Mawddach estuary avoids another large diversion inland. As you head northwards the mountains of North Snowdonia begin to loom and you’ll have fantastic views over Pen Llyn, the next section of the trail. This entire section of the Wales Coast Path is accessible by train.
On the Llyn Coast Path
Pen Llyn
The Llyn Coast Path is a tale of two halves really. The sunny, calm and gentle terrain of the south-east facing coast offers pleasant walking with enjoyable pitstops at the traditional seaside resort towns, Porthmadog, Criccieth, Pwllheli and Abersoch. The views south over Cardigan Bay all the way back to Pembrokeshire are spectacular, and if you’ve walked the entirety of the path to now then it’ll be amazing to reflect on the journey this far. As you round the tip of the Peninsula to the west facing windswept beach of Porth Neigwl and the headland at Anelog, though, the drama of tall cliffs, rugged terrain and quiet coves returns, offering a real ‘edge of the world’ feeling. Dotted along this coastline are ancient pilgrimage churches, remnants of hilltop forts and cairns, and sacred sites. The lifeblood of this windswept and sunkissed peninsula is the sea; both for humans and nature. It holds some of the most important marine habitats for species and carbon capture in Britain, and local communities depend on the local catch for their livelihoods. While you’re here why not plan a stop off at the Welsh Language Heritage Centre at Nant Gwytheyrn - the trail passes through this amazing spot and offers a chance to absorb the history, language and culture of the area. You’ll welcome the break too - the climb in and out of this ‘hidden’ valley is a serious prospect! Once out of the valley the path continues on some of the flattest terrain of the Wales Coast Path along towards Caernarfon and along the Menai Strait.
Public transport is more limited on this part of the Wales Coast Path than others, and on some stretches of the north coast you’d be wise to take everything you need for the day as there are limited pit stops and facilities.
Looking south to Pen Llyn from Ynys Mon
Ynys Mon - Anglesey
As you cross over to the island and begin the Anglesey section of the Wales Coast Path along the Menai Strait, it’s hard to know whether it’s going to be dissatisfying or rewarding to end up back in the very same spot to cross back to the mainland some 130 miles later, having circumnavigated the entire island! The Menai Strait, sand dunes and coastal forests of the south west portion of the path begin tranquil enough, before the terrain once again becomes more rugged with rocky coves, sandy bays and lofty cliffs. A highlight is the lighthouse and nature reserve at South Stack, the church in the sea at St Cwyfan’s (catch it at low tide if you want to cross), Porthwen brickworks, and Parys Mountain copper mine at Amlwch. The island is also fantastic for wildlife onshore and offshore - in recent years there have been Basking Sharks and even Orca spotted from the shore here, as well as more regular visiting dolphins, porpoise, seals & puffins. Keep an eye out as you never know what you’ll spot!
Conwy on the North Coast
North Coast
The North Coast is often calm and sheltered from the south westerly prevailing winds which often batter the rest of the coast, so a good option perhaps to avoid the worst of the spring and autumn storms. With a number of seaside resort towns, and excellent rail connectivity, this is one of the most accessible parts of the Wales Coast Path. Starting in the University City of Bangor, you can enjoy one of the flattest sections of the Wales Coast Path here, following the coastal plain for miles, with the option at Llanfairfechan to continue along the trail hugging the shore but next to the busy main north wales highway, or to climb steeply onto the hills behind for a more peaceful trail with far reaching views over the coast. The path loops around Great Orme, a headland jutting into the sea with dramatic cliffs, beautiful views, and hidden seal colonies, before once again following the coast road and through the towns of Colwyn Bay, Abergele, Rhyl and Prestatyn. The final stretch of the Wales Coast Path in North Wales passes through sand dunes, and once past Talacre lighthouse, follows the Dee estuary, through the towns of Holywell, Flint and Connah’s Quay. Parts of the trail here are industrial and the remainder follows the river Dee to the border between England and Wales, on the outskirts of Chester, with excellent rail links, accommodation and facilities.
Carmarthenshire Coast accesible trail
Are there any accessible parts of the Wales Coast Path?
It’s true that much of the Wales Coast Path is made up of rough terrain, with steep ascents and descents, rocky and sandy trails and mud galore, but there are still plenty of parts of the trail that can be enjoyed by those with limited mobility, wheelchair users or pram pushers.
Promenades feature surprisingly often on the Wales Coast Path! Those that are part of the coast path are at Cardiff, Barry, Porthcawl, Aberavon, Swansea, Rhossili, Tenby, Goodwick, Aberaeron, Aberystwyth, Barmouth, Pwllheli, Caernarfon, Beaumaris, Llandudno and Rhyl.
There are also several longer accessible parts of the Wales Coast Path including the Millenium Coastal Trail at Llanelli, accesible trail at Aberporth, and the Mawddach Trail with stunning views and good facilities.
Which are the best bases for walking the Wales Coast Path?
With five cities situated on the Wales Coast Path, plus many large towns, and smaller villages and communities, you’re never too far away from civilization. Many parts of the Wales Coast Path are accessible by train and have local bus services facilitating one-way walks. Leaving the larger towns and cities aside, here are some of the best pitstops and bases for a hiking trip on the welsh coast.
The pretty resort town of Tenby in South Pembrokeshire
Chepstow
Situated right at the beginning of the Wales Coast Path, Chepstow is a small, attractive and historic riverside town with plenty of facilities and places to stay. It is linked by rail to Newport and Cardiff so is a great option for the first section of the trail if you’d prefer a smaller town over the larger cities. From here you can also join the Wye Valley Walk and Offa’s Dyke National Trail so it’s a walker’s paradise!
Llantwit Major
A traditional rural town in the heart of the Glamorgan Heritage Coast, with a wide range of options for accommodation here, from old manor houses to basic campsites, luxury farm cottages and glamping, with plenty of places to eat in the town centre, interesting history to explore and a train link between Bridgend and Cardiff. It’s not particularly touristy so doesn’t get unpleasantly busy during the summer. To refuel on this stretch visit Cobbles Kitchen at Ogmore.
Mumbles
To the west of Swansea Bay, Mumbles is a traditional victorian resort complete with promenade linking it to the city of Swansea, and a pier. The real attraction though, is the range of accommodation and food options overlooking the bay, and the ice cream! A great option for exploring the Gower Peninsula. Good shouts for pitstops are Three Cliffs Coffee Shop at Southgate, and The Lookout at Rhossili.
Kidwelly
A small coastal town with a pretty hilltop castle overlooking the sea, pubs and accommodation, and on the train line, Kidwelly is a good choice as a base for the Carmarthenshire coast path. Visit the Boathouse at Laugharne for lunch or coffee and to absorb some Dylan Thomas culture at the same time!
Tenby
You’ll be spoilt for choice of accommodation, food and great transport options in this colourful coastal resort town in South Pembrokeshire, making it a good base from which to explore the south Pembrokeshire Coast Path. As it is very popular it does get very busy, with limited parking and accommodation including campsites often fully booked during the peak season, so it’s advised to plan ahead. For food along the trail don’t miss the National Trust Boathouse tearoom at Stackpole, or Cafe Mor seafood kiosk at Freshwater West.
Little Haven / Broad Haven
As the name suggests, Little Haven is a tiny beach village with a couple of pubs and a shop including one of the best seafood takeaways on the Pembrokeshire coast - Lobster and Mor. Broadhaven is larger, with more accommodation options, shops, surf hire and a large beach. The Runwayskiln at Marloes Sands is a good pitstop on the coast path, and the Druidston hotel is great for hearty meals and sundowners overlooking the sea.
St Davids
The only problem with staying in St David’s is that you may not want to leave! Wales (and Britain’s) smallest city, no larger than a very small town, is located in the centre of the St David’s Peninsula, with good coastal bus services north and south facilitating a large section of the coast path. With plenty of places to eat and stay plus amazing history and nature, it does get busy here, so booking ahead is key. Some of the campsites have specific ‘drop-in’ tent pitches for backpackers walking the coast path. Don’t miss the Sloop Inn at Porthgain, or Melin Tregwynt in Castlemorris.
Fishguard
With rail, bus and ferry links should you need them, plus ample accommodation and facilities, Fishguard is good as a starting or ending point or if you need to make a bigger stop if you’ve been on the trail for a while. The lower town is very colourful and characterful right next to the harbour.
Newport
A small, pretty, and laid back coastal town, Newport has some really good accommodation and food options. Walk uphill from the beach to hit the main part of the town with small independent shops, cafes, and pubs. Try Pwnc Cafe or Blas for food and coffee, or if you’re lucky you can time it to visit the street market.
Aberaeron
Aberaeron is a colourful town set around a beautiful harbour, with lots of places to stay, eat and shop. The harbour can get very busy in peak season, but wander inland a little, following the river Aeron, and you’ll find yourself in a tranquil river valley. The town’s best known place to stay and eat is the Harbourmaster, a bright blue building sitting right on the quay.
Machynlleth
Almost as far inland as the Wales Coast Path takes you, a very welcome diversion up the Dyfi estuary takes you to Machynlleth, known as the ‘Ancient Capitol of Wales’ owing to it’s seat of Welsh Parliment during Owain Glyndwr’s uprising in the 1400’s. It’s an eclectic town, being on the one hand a very traditional welsh market town, and on the other, home to an alternative community, environmentally progressive and forward thinking. Accommodation is mainly in traditional inns or bed and breakfast or self-catering on the outskirts of towns, and there is a range of food options to suit everyone from the strictest of vegans to fans of a greasy full welsh breakfast.
Llanbedr
Llanbedr is a beautiful coastal village sandwiched between the Rhinogydd mountain range and the sea. Although the village is set out either side of the busy coast road, there are some really good accommodation and food options here, as well as a train connection. When walking through Harlech, stop off at the Llew Glas cafe for a bowl of Cawl or cake and tea.
Nefyn
Visitors to this part of the coast are often drawn to bustling Criccieth or Abersoch, but coast path walkers may find themselves drawn to the quieter side of the Llyn, and Nefyn / Porth Dinllaen is a lovely traditional town with beautiful beach and a great pub. The coast will take you right past the famous pub on the beach, Ty Coch, where you’d be hard pressed to resist a cold drink sat on the wall overlooking the beach. The transport links here aren’t brilliant, but you’re not far away from Pwllheli and a rail link.
Beaumaris
An historic and attractive small town overlooking the Menai Strait, with a pier and its own UNESCO World Heritage site, Beaumaris makes a great port of call for walking the Anglesey coast path. For fresh local food call in to Dylan’s at Menai Bridge, Tide / Llanw at Halen Mon, or visit the Stag Inn at Cemaes, for a drink in the most northerly pub in Wales. There is a rail link through Anglesey all the way to Holyhead.
Conwy
A medieval walled town and UNESCO World Heritage site along with Beaumaris, Caernarfon and Harlech, Conwy is a great town to spend some time exploring or resting before tackling the final section of the Wales Coast Path. There are plenty of places to stay, and lots of independent shops, cafes and a lovely quay where you can pick up a bag of mussels fresh off the boat! Conwy is linked by rail and buses along the north Wales coast.
Responsible Travel
The Wales Coast path is a celebration of the amazing coastal beauty of Wales and when we’re visiting we have a responsibility to keep it that way for those who come after us.
Spread out
Consider visiting some of the less busy parts of the trail to avoid adding to pressure in these areas. and if you can, visit outside of peak times.
Park Responsibly
There have been some shocking examples of bad parking en masse over the last couple of years, with gates being blocked, verges being ruined, and roads being blocked to emergency vehicles and buses by bad parking. Don’t do it! Car parks in the coastal areas fill up quickly, so arrive early, plan alternative routes and parking options for if your first choice is full, or better, plan your walks around the bus or even more fun, train services!
Don’t light fires
In spring and summer especially the coast is very vulnerable to forest and grass fires, even with the best intentions fires can accidentally get out of hand so better to be safe than sorry.
Take your litter home & go to the toilet responsibly
Public toilets are available in most of the towns mentioned above. If you get caught out in the more remote areas, make sure you go away from trails, buildings or waterways, take any tissue out with you, and dig a deep hole for anything substantial and make sure it is buried afterwards!
Support local businesses
You’ll be hard pressed to find any massive chains or big brands outside of the main cities on the Wales Coast Path, but do consider using independent shops, visiting farmers markets, staying in official campsites and eating locally produced food - you’ll get an enriched experience of the trail if you do anyway!