The Cambrian Way

The Cambrian Way…

Known as ‘the mountain connoisseur's route’, the Cambrian Way is the ultimate trail for those who love walking, mountains and Wales. Starting in Cardiff in the South and ending in Conwy in the North, the 298 mile route traverses the South Wales Valleys, Brecon Beacons, Cambrian Mountains and Eryri (Snowdonia) National Park. It can take around 3 weeks to complete and parts are very remote, so self-sufficiency and hot navigation skills are required on many sections!

For all the details, history of the trail, the official guidebook, maps, t-shirts and more, visit the Cambrian Way Trust Website.

Realistically, there’s no way I’d be able to take 3 weeks out of mum life and work to walk the route in one go, so instead I’ve made a start, and will enjoy it a section at a time. Maybe when I get to the end my children will be old enough to join me, who knows!

I’ll be updating this page with each stage of the route as I walk it so please check back, and follow along on social media for more regular updates.

Stage 1

The Cambrian Way begins in Cardiff, at the entrance of Bute Park near the castle, and ends in Machen near Caerphilly. In 2022 a new plaque was installed at the beginning of the route at the entrance of Bute Park. I was lucky enough to be invited along to the unveiling and a Rambler’s Cymru celebration of everything that has been achieved with the route to date. From Bute Park, the route follows the river Taff for some way, branching off to follow the old Glamorgan Canal, now a nature reserve. The route then passes under the M4 and climbs to reach Castell Coch, a romantic fairytale ‘castle’ built on the site of a much older, ancient castle foundation. The route continues up through Fforest Fawr, with beautiful Beech trees, and past the Three Bears cave. This is as far as I have walked on Stage 1 so far - I still have Caerphilly to Machen to walk.

Stage 2

For Stage 2, from Risca to Pontypool I spent a day in the company of Olie Wicks from Ramblers Cymru, who looks after the route and is a fountain of knowledge! I even had the chance to put in a waymarker (keep a look out for it as you descend Twmbarlwm)! This section actually starts in Machen, heads up and over Mynydd Machen before dropping to Risca. As we were doing the walk by train that day, we started from Risca, and so I’ll go back to walk the first few kilometres another time. From Risca, the route follows the canal towpath briefly, then climbs steeply at first up through an old lane, surrounded by mixed woodland, before arriving to beautiful views at Pegwyn y Bwlch. A short, steep climb then brings you to the summit of Twmbarlwm, with panoramic views, over the Bristol Channel to Devon, and across the South Wales Valleys. There is then a long, lofty walk along Mynydd Henllys, with great views, before descending into Blaen Bran Community Woodland, and finally, a beautiful old green lane down into Pontypool, where we walked through town to reach the train station for our return journey. I loved that this section was so accessible and achievable in a day from home!

Stage 3

Stage 3 is a 20km stretch from Pontypool to Abergavenny. Add in another kilometre or so each side to reach the train station and you have a good day out, and preparation for the tougher days ahead on the trail.

I met back up with Olie from Ramblers Cymru and Walking Spaces Officer Amanda, plus my walking buddy Pip Jones who is also walking the Cambrian Way in sections and writing it up for her Wales Bucketlist site. We were lucky enough to have fantastic weather - sunny but not too hot. Again, this section is linked up by train so we were all able to make use of the train instead of having to coordinate car sharing.

The route begins walking through Pontypool park, with a very steep but short climb up to an amazing Shell Grotto and amazing views which I wasn’t expecting so early on! From there it’s a walk up a lane through pretty countryside to a Folly Tower with an outstanding outlook. The trail then becomes rougher and follows high moorland for miles. Care was needed to take a good line and not veer off the very broad grassy ridge. It was nice to have a day off navigating as Olie and Amanda knew the route, so I could just admire the views and take lots of photos. We spotted a lizard basking in the sunshine and plenty of buzzards and skylarks overhead. The trail eventually wiggles its way through rough heathland up to the summit of Blorenge, with gobsmacking views over the Brecon Beacons and back over the Valleys. Then the fun really began, as we tested our tired legs on the hilariously steep descent down to Abergavenny. There is an alternative route but we had fun sliding on the bracken fronds and zigzagging our way directly down. The trail then enters some very pretty but equally steep woodland, before coming out ceremoniously through a tunnel under someone’s actual house into the village of Llanfoist! We passed several dog walkers and everyone wanted a chat and was keen to offer directions through Abergavenny to the train station. I really loved this section of the trail and the surprises that the Cambrian Way keeps offering - I’m loving getting to know my country in this way.

Stage 4

I walked Stage 4, which is a 13 mile route from Abergavenny to Capel y Ffin with Joe and Olie from Ramblers Cymru. We were excited to be out on the trail to test out the OS online digital mapping of the route which had just been completed. This stage feels like a real turning point for the trail; leaving the more industrial and built up landscape behind and heading into the vaster, more remote and sleepy landscapes of the Black Mountains. The downside of this of course is that public transport becomes scarce, and so we left a car at the end in Capel y Ffin and drove back to Abergavenny to begin the walk. The route climbs steeply from Abergavenny up to the summit of Pen y Fal (Sugarloaf) through classic Black Mountain scenery offering woodland, moorland, gorgeous green lanes, historic sites and the first mountain on the Cambrian Way when walking from South to North. We came across Thomas from Netherlands who was walking the entire route over the next few weeks, as we descended Sugarloaf, and spent the rest of the day walking with him. We placed a few markers and Adventuresmart signs along the route too.

Stage 5

Stage 5 of the Cambrian Way climbs from Capel y Ffin back up onto the Black Mountains and returns southwards to Crickhowell. This is a big walk at 16.5 miles and over 1000m ascent. I am yet to walk the entire stage in one go, but have spent a lot of time walking most of the stage on various other walks over the years. The walk from Twmpa to Waun Fach offers the most spectacular scenery over the Wye Valley, the Begwyns, Epynt and the Brecon Beacons. Waun Fach itself is a fairly disappointing summit, despite being the highest in the range, and the third highest in all of the National Park, with an unceremonious low plaque marking the broad, shapeless summit. However, the open skies, the mountain ponies roaming freely, the sounds of skylarks singing, golden plover calling and red kites wheeling overhead and the feeling of cruising high above the lush valleys below makes this stage one of the most unforgettable days of the whole trail. Descending to Crickhowell can feel slightly discouraging, as Pen Y Fal from the beginning of the previous stage is now very close again. But the lovely views towards the central Beacons from the old Iron Age hillfort of Crug hywel, which lends its name to the town below, and the prospect of some sustenance in the lovely Crickhowell will speed you on.

Stage 6

Stage 6 is the longest and toughest so far, with 21 miles and a respectable 1720m of ascent. It’s exciting too, reaching the high point of the Brecon Beacons at Pen y Fan and walking along the top of some airy escarpments with plenty of dramatic views. Again, I haven’t yet walked the route in its entirety in one go, but have spent much time walking here. Highlights from the first part of this stage is the amazing landscape at Llangattock Escarpment / Craig y Ciliau nature reserve. There’s also some fascinating welsh history to this landscape - the route passes by the chartist cave, used as a base for the pro-democracy chartist movement and planning of the Newport Rising in the 1830s. Climbing begins in earnest from Torpantau, up to Craig y Fan Du, and along to the peaks of Fan y Big (if you choose a short diversion), Cribyn, the star of the show Pen y Fan, and Corn Du, with a descent and ascent to be made in between each, before finally descending towards the A470 at Storey Arms where the stage finishes. The views on this stage can be exceptional if you’re lucky enough to have clear weather.

Stage 7

After the previous stages, 7 is a cinch, at just under 12 miles and ascent of only 700 metres. However, the terrain is perhaps harder going, boggy in places and without the well trodden paths of the previous stages. This is another stage that I’ve completed in piecemeal over many different walks in the area. The route skirts below the peak of Fan Fawr which is across the road from Storey Arms, crossing some lovely quiet terrain reaching the ancient standing stone Maen Llia. From there the route climbs uphill and skirts under the peak of Fan Nedd, with exceptional views over Heol Senni, a glacier carved valley. Fan Gyhirch is a lovely whaleback summit with spectacular views back all the way to the Black Mountains. The Ogof Ffynnon Ddu National Nature Reserve has an altogether different landscape to that of the central Beacons, as the route crosses a band of limestone which runs through this part of the National Park. Below your feet is a huge cave system. The descent takes you to the watering hole Tafarn y Garreg, where there is a small back to basics campsite. I love this stage for its boggy roughness and for how quiet it is, particularly compared to the previous stage.

Stage 8

After a relatively easy day on Stage 7, things ramp up again on this stage, though the views if you’re lucky enough to have them make this one of the best stages on the entire trail (I know I’ve said that about a previous stage but it’s hard to choose!). The route climbs up from Glyntawe and along the edge of Fan Hir, whose name means long peak, and that’s exactly what it feels like. Briefly dipping down then climbing again to Fan Brycheiniog, with breathtaking views over Llyn y Fan Fawr at its base, and over Fforest Fawr and the Central Beacons, as far back as the Black Mountains. The route follows the edge of the escarpments, descending with views of Llyn y Fan Fach, and climbing back up again to Picws Du, The second part of the stage, which I’m yet to walk, is from Llanddeusant, where you could stay in the hostel if you wanted to break the stage into two, to Llandovery, a pretty town with plenty of facilities and accommodation. The photos are from many walks on this stage over the years.

Stage 9

In April 2023 I spent three days on the mid Wales section of the Cambrian Way, from Llandovery to Ponterwyd.

Day 1 was Stage 9 - Llandovery to Tŷ'n Cornel hostel. It's 26km (16 miles) and involves 870m of ascent. This day was tough as we were getting used to the heavy packs having not used them for a while, and there was quite a lot of lane and track walking which I found hard on my feet with my solid mountain boots (I'd be glad of these later in the trip). We heard our first cuckoo of the year and were circled by many curious red kites. There is some stunning riverside walking at Rhandirmwyn and through the Doethie Valley. The first part of this stage once out of Llandovery was new to me, though this was my second journey along the second half of the stage, having walked through the Doethie Valley previously, and having stayed at Ty’n Cornel before.

It's quite incredible to walk through a dramatic change in landscape, from the soft rolling scenery of south Wales, into the craggier, folded hillsides and gorges of mid Wales. We couldn't resist stopping at the Towy Bridge Inn, where we received a warm welcome and a thirst quenching drink. Next was a long, gradual and boggy ascent through the beautiful Doethie Valley to the hostel to be greeted by wardens Janet & Richard, who already had the fire going for us.

Stage 10

I walked this stage as day two of a three day walk on the mid Wales section of the Cambrian Way in April 2023. Stage 10 is 14.5 miles from Ty'n Cornel hostel to Claerddu, with 820m ascent.

We woke up to mist in the valley with blue skies overhead, which helped to coax our aching bodies out of our comfy hostel bunks. We had a very relaxed morning pottering around having breakfast and coffee and chatting to the wardens, then realised we should probably get on our way! Terry one of the wardens walked down the track with us then we said goodbye and turned up onto the boggy hillsides. As we climbed, the views opened up behind us with the peaks of Bannau Brycheiniog (Brecon Beacons) rising in the distance. At first glance this area looks depressingly barren, but our spirits were lifted by spongy spaghnum moss underfoot, numerous lizards darting across the grass in front of us, and even a deer bounding away - unsure who was more startled. All the while the red kites were soaring overhead. We reached the iconic Nantymaen phone box, and continued through more bog up to the peak of Garn Gron. I was clearly in need of my lunch as I could only be bothered to snap a quick photo of the enormous cairn and took none of the spectacular views which stretched along the Ceredigion coast, north to Pen Llŷn and over to Pumlumon and Cader Idris.
We descended through seemingly interminable bog, and were relieved to reach a forestry track which took us all the way to Strata Florida Abbey. Our hopes of a cold drink in the Abbey shop were dashed when we found it closed, so we continued, up once more, through the gorgeous Egnant Valley. I was excited to find the halfway signpost and bench, because despite my piecemeal approach to walking the trail, I have almost certainly covered half now. We reached the Teifi Pools; a series of lakes and reservoirs high up on the moorland plateau, and then, out of nowhere, the bothy appeared. Our home for the night. We were delighted to find that despite it being a bank holiday weekend, there was only one other person there and we settled in for the evening, sharing stories over our stoves.

Stage 11

Our final day of a 3 day walk on the mid Wales section of the Cambrian Way was Stage 11, 14.5miles from Claerddu to Ponterwyd with 910m of ascent and 1140m of descent.

After a lovely evening in the bothy, we woke determined to get an early start, as we knew our accommodation for the next evening had a cut off for dinner and we wanted to make it! We set off full of enthusiasm, now were were into the swing of things, we could barely feel the packs on our backs. That all changed quite quickly when we were knee deep in bog with the rain pouring down; we just put our heads down and got on with it. I think there may have been a little bit of singing involved to try to take our minds off things. Our relief at reaching the village of Cwmystwyth was short lived when we encountered the world's boggiest bog as we climbed up again; though we had long since given up attempting to keep our feet dry.
Forestry and track came next, with a beautiful descent into Devil's Bridge from the Hafod arch. We met Caroline from North Wales going the other way; the only other walker we'd encountered on the trail so far. She was picking up where she'd left off at Ponterwyd ten years earlier, and planned to make it all the way to Cardiff this time. A quick chat and we worked out that she was a friend of a friend of a friend’s mum - of course she was, this is Wales after all!
As we arrived into the village, the rain turned from torrential to biblical, and we were over the moon to find the Two Hoots tearoom at the train station open. Although we were dripping wet and no doubt had more than a whiff of bog about us, we were welcomed and fed and had some respite from the rain. With no sign of it letting up, after an hour we couldn’t put off the inevitable any longer. We left and descended through the Cwm Rheidol gorge, a spectacular steep sided wooded valley. Reaching the river, we threw off our packs and jumped in for a quick dip; the cold water felt so good on our tired bodies! The steepest ascent of the trip so far awaited us, and we climbed slowly up the other side of the gorge on a stony track, then over bilberry and heather-clad hillside which finally descended into Ponterwyd and the George Borrow Hotel; our bed for the night and the end of our time on the Cambrian Way - for the time being!

Stage 12

This stage takes you from Ponterwyd to Dylife via mid Wales’ highest mountain range, Pumlumon. Pumlumon is special, as three great rivers, the Wye, the Severn and the Rheidol, have their source here. The route takes you near enough the source of the Wye as well as to the summit of Pumlumon Fawr. On a good day you can see all of Wales from here - back south to the Brecon Beacons, to Strumble Head lighthouse in Pembrokeshire, and north to the mountains of Eryri - enticing you on. This is a land of forestry plantations, wind turbines and in places, quite bare. I’ve completed the middle section of this stage, but am yet to walk the first few and last few miles.

Stage 13 & 14

To be walked…

Stage 15

This stage is a real treat, with a traverse of Cader Idris, one of the most beautiful mountains in Wales, thanks to prominence, dramatic craggy cliffs and glacial lakes. I’ve only completed a small section of this stage so far; the middle section, along the top of Cader Idris, while walking other routes. I have the beginning and end still to walk - the Cregennan lakes and the Barmouth Bridge have both been on my ‘to walk’ wishlist for a very long time. Photos from several walks over Cader Idris over the years.

Stage 16

The Rhinogydd range is the setting for Stage 16; probably the toughest, and certainly the most enigmatic stage of the Cambrian Way. The going is rough, rugged and with an ascent of 1,700 metres and 14 miles, this stage is perhaps best split into two with a wild camp in between. The Rhinogydd is Wales’ only biogenetic reserve, home to special species of plants and a herd of goats that roam wild, descended from those once kept by goat herders, as the only animals able to eke out their existence in these rough lands. There are a number of sparkling, mysterious lakes, with descents into mountain passes before climbing again. The Roman Steps is an ancient route leading from Rhinog Fawr to Cwm Bychan, the end of the stage. I have walked almost all of this stage, apart from the first few miles from Barmouth.

Stage 17

Offering up more of the same remote-feeling, heather clad and bog-rich landscapes as Stage 16, though without the large peaks, instead, this stage climbs from the nearly-wild campsite at Cwm Bychan through more rough, boggy and downright awkward terrain, sometimes referred to as the ‘badlands’, to Moel Ysgyfarnogod. Although only ten miles and around 800m total ascent for the entire stage, it offers a real challenge due to all of the scrambling up, down and around the numerous small peaks along the route. Navigation here is tricky - we had great weather and even so had to pay close attention to following the route (we used the OS Maps online which now shows the route along here - and was generally well plotted). Using the map alone you’d need exceptional micronavigation skills in poor visibility. The reward for us, thanks to a window of clear weather in a very wet and windy April, were exceptional views over all of Eryri and out of the Pen Llyn. We came across a couple of feral goats and, as we neared Llyn Trawsfynydd, an osprey flew past! No doubt one of the summer residents from the nearby Glaslyn Ospreys reserve. The looming presence of the nuclear power stations and the dam that the trail passes over jolts you back to the modern world after two days of the wildest terrain in Wales, where you may have imagined yourself transported to centuries past. The stage ends, cunningly, near the Grapes Hotel in Maentwrog - well recommended for a post walk drink and bowl of chips - they looked after us so well even when we arrived all muddy and dishevelled in the middle of a busy Saturday evening.

Stage 18

This stage takes in some of the Moelwynion range, before taking a lowland route to Beddgelert via the Aberglaslyn Pass. The views from the peaks of Moelwyn Mawr and Cnicht are spectacular, and the route passes through an old slate quarry. I have the first few miles still to walk; from Maentwrog to Tanygrisiau.

Stage 19

A stage that I know very well, having walked the route many times in bits and pieces. From Beddgelert the route travels around Llyn Dinas before climbing the Watkin path past some beautiful waterfalls and old quarry workings, before branching off to join the south ridge, walking along the edge of the huge Clogwyn Du cliffs, and Bwlch Main ridge, to the summit of Yr Wyddfa (Snowdon). Obviously being the highest peak on the entire Cambrian Way this stage feels special. The descent via the Miners Path past the three lakes of Llyn Glaslyn, Llyn Llydaw and Llyn Teryn is stunning. There are facilities, food and a hostel at the end of this stage at Pen y Pass.

Stage 20

Starting from Pen y Pass, the Cambrian Way takes a lesser travelled route up onto the Glyderau, first to the highest peak in the range, Glyder Fawr, then over to Glyder Fach, down the old miners path to Bwlch Tryfan, before continuing past Llyn Bochlwyd and down to Ogwen Cottage. It’s a really short stage at only 5.5 miles, but absolutely spectacular, with the shattered rocky formations on the peaks and two beautiful, quiet lakes. I have walked the entire route for this stage, but not in one go. There is a legend that never a day passes without some cloud on the Glyderau and so far for me, this legend has held true! Glyder Fawr in particular can be quite disorientating in poor visibility.

Stage 21

The final stage of the Cambrian Way (or the first if you are walking north to south) traverses the Carneddau range. The largest area of high land in Wales, this range is vast and beautiful. The walk from Ogwen Cottage up to Pen yr Ole Wen, the first peak, is beautiful, following a grass and rocky ridge up to the broad summit, with a short section of scrambling. The views back to the Glyderau are incredible. From Pen yr Ole Wen the route stays high as it visits Carnedd Dafydd, Carnedd Llywellyn, Foel Grach, Carnedd Gwenllian, Foel Fras and then dropping gradually all the way to Conwy. I have walked from Ogwen to Foel Fras but am yet to cover the finishing miles to Conwy.